Wednesday, December 12, 2012

An Unnamed Hospital

I usually make an effort to avoid going into detail about what upsets me about a health facility, but today was over the top.

Once again, we left Dakar to visit a hospital in one of the regions. Since I have yet to release my report, this hospital will have to remain unnamed. We interviewed several doctors, and it was the nurses who told us that patients here have to go to the pharmacies themselves and buy analgesics, and then bring them back to the hospital. At the Emergency Room, we spoke with the head nurse about problems with palliative care, and she began by saying, "in this unit, most of our patients come here alone, because it is an emergency situation and they do not have a family member with them." I was unsure of why she would mention that, since that's the issue for emergency rooms everywhere and doesn't seem like it would impact health care. But here, the problem is that the emergency room stocks NO analgesics--NO painkillers, not even the lowest grade, level I analgesics. Thus, when a patient is pain, they depend on a family member to leave the hospital, go to the pharmacy with a prescription that the nurses or doctors wrote up, buy it, and come back. If you come alone, there is no one to go to the pharmacy for you.

When she told me this, I thought perhaps I had misheard. "WHAT?" I exclaimed. "French is not my first language--let me clarify--did you just say that patients--presumably the ones you receive here are in extreme pain since it's emergencies--will have NO pain support until someone cares enough about them to go to the pharmacy and buy them pain medication?"

She confirmed that was the case.

"Well what do you do when someone has no money?? Or if someone has no relatives?" I asked.

"They suffer," she replied. "Well actually, if the patient really is in a lot of pain, the nurse or doctors might go buy them the medication with their own salaries."

The situation is same in the operatory bloc--there are analgesics to use during surgery, but nothing for post-operatory care--you need to go to a pharmacy to buy the analgesic and bring it back. Sadly, the hospital uses this system because it has no money--it cannot afford to keep analgesics, even level I painkillers, in stock and on hand. 

Monday, December 10, 2012

Last week in Dakar

Dakar is an assault of smells. In the morning I exit my hotel and walk towards the hospital. On the way, there is the aroma of onions grilled with meat, fresh bread, and sometimes, if the wind blows a certain way, the water. Unfortunately, there is also the smell of urine, body odors, and dust (yes, dust has a smell). Worst of all, I can never seem to escape the clouds of cigarette smoke. In a country in which the dominant forms of cancer in men are in the prostate, liver, and lungs, it seems that refraining from smoking is such an easy way to eliminate one of those three risks. It's such an expensive habit, makes you age faster, ruins your teeth, and exposes you to a variety of other illnesses! I'm changing hotel rooms tomorrow because I am next door to two repulsive men who spend their entire waking hours smoking. The smoke seeps into my room and despite opening all the windows, I can't get rid of it. One of them shaved his chest, and threw a handful of scraggly man hair into the hall way because for some reason the trash can was not a good enough destination--actually, I'm not even sure if it was from his chest, his chest happened to be bare, but maybe the hair was from elsewhere. How disgusting. I guess since they are French they have access to universal health care, so at least they won't have to pay as much for cancer treatment; maybe it's worth the risk to them.

I like Senegal, and have met many wonderful people here, but I'm not a huge fan of Dakar. Taiwan is a dirty city too, where everyone smokes, but I guess I put up with Taiwan because it's the home of my family. And, Taiwan has amazing food, awesome shopping, and it is very safe. I guess Dakar has great food and shopping too, but here I'm a foreigner, and have to make an effort to avoid ridiculously inflated prices every day. In Taiwan, no one can tell I'm a foreigner (if I keep my mouth shut), so I guess it's a lot easier to blend in. I was showing some of my photos from traveling to one of the girls at the cancer ward, and she said, "New York is beautiful. California is beautiful. Spain is beautiful. Amsterdam is beautiful. Everywhere is beautiful, except for Senegal."

"No, Senegal is beautiful too," I said hurriedly, but it took a while for me to think up of what is beautiful about Senegal. Indeed, parts of Senegal are beautiful--Cassamance, for example. There are also some impressive dunes to the North--and Ile Goree is splendid. Dakar also has some lovely beaches.

I'm really happy with how the work has been going here, but I'm ready to go home--to the USA, land where smoking is banned in all indoor establishments. 

Friday, December 7, 2012

Hospital Silence

For our last day in Zigunchor, we went to the Centre de Sante, also known as "Hopital Silence." That's an odd name for a hospital, we thought--Silence Hospital. It turns out that outside the Centre, they put up a sign requesting that passing cars and people refrain from making a lot of noise--it should have said, "Hopital, Silence," but because they omitted the comma, people thought it was the name of the Centre. As with some of the other Centres that we have seen, it is overrun with goats and cats. There are 3 doctors, 6-7 nurses, and probably 15 goats roaming the grounds.

Now I am back in Dakar. The receptionist at the hotel is from Cassamance, and he said that he would tell me the full story of the war there. According to him, the government claims it's just about independence, but it's far more complicated than that. When I told my interpreter this, he said, "that sounds like something one of the rebels would say."

One of the girls at the pediatrics ward gave me a necklace and a beaded key chain that she made.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Zigunchor, Cassamance

Zigunchor and Cassamance--two beautiful names. Dakar, Podor, and St. Louis don't have such a nice ring, but Zigunchor (pronounced zee-gun-shore) sounds like an exotic cocktail, and "Cassamance" sounds like a hidden kingdom. Some doctors warned me not to go to Cassamance because of the instability. However, there has been a ceasefire (there were several--one in 2001, then again in 2004, then sort of in 2010), and things seem fairly stable now. The people of Cassamance, predominantly the Diola, maintained a violent separatist movement for many years. Apparently the King there is honored with wrestling matches every week (my source is 4 years old, maybe that has changed now). Most people have said that Zigunchor is a good place to conduct field research because it is so different from the rest of Senegal. For one, it is predominantly Christian or Animist, while the rest of the country is Muslim. For another, its climate is lush, wet, and tropical--lots of great fruit.

As we left Dakar, I could see the white clay houses from above; they looked like crumbling tombstones. We flew along the coast, and as moved towards the Cassamance River, the land changed completely. Above the Gambia, the land stretches flat and dry, with parched looking plants (except on the islands). Southern Senegal is green and moist. From thousands of feet above ground, the rivers look like serpents undulating through patches of green. There are no structures--just these rivers and foliage.

At the hospital, everyone talks about "the war." I had thought the ceasefire solved things, but apparently not at all. Thought Zigunchor is fairly safe, outside there are still attacks. Since Zigunchor Regional Hospital is the only level III hospital in the entire region, the seriously wounded are often brought here. I asked if there are a lot of land mine victims coming to the hospital, and the person I was speaking with said, "not really, this year there has been only one."

Then I stupidly said, "Oh, that's not too bad."

Then he said, "well people usually die right away when they hit a land mine, so there is no need to take them to the hospital."

Apparently the last land mind explosion, which killed 4 people, occurred just 2 days ago, on December 3rd.

The conflict in Zigunchor has received very little international attention, given how long it has lasted (about 30 years). It has been classified as low conflict now, but it seems a lot of people are holding their breath. Given the recent election and change in government, things have been quiet because they are negotiating, but apparently they are always negotiating--then negotiations fall apart, and violence erupts again. Despite this being a conflict zone, there is no morphine (and never has been, except for some random donations) for pain management.






Sunday, December 2, 2012

Dakar's Market and International Fair

It is the weekend, and once again I am happy!

It's nice to have time to relax, although it's already Sunday evening. Yesterday I went to the market and went on a shopping spree. I haven't bought clothes in quite some time, and I wanted to buy everything! Then I reminded myself that one Senegalese outfit was more than enough, since I would not be wearing it in the US. I love the clothes here! They are bright and shiny. We walked into a fabric store, and it was like entering a fairy land. Bolts of cloth twinkled with sequins and glitter, hundreds of shades all with some sort of shimmer to them. It was as if someone had put diamond dust in a...one of those machines that make fake snow (I forget what they are called) and went nuts with it. I was too overwhelmed with the selection, so I ended up just looking for something ready made. The ladies here however, pick their own fabric, and mix and match to design a custom made outfit. I found something suitable for a meeting with the ministry, and bought it for $12 because my Senegalese friend helped me bargain. They originally tried to charge me $50. I would have happily paid $20, but my friend said, "you don't talk with people about prices, let me do the talking." So I did, and was shocked (though not too shocked) at how far the price tumbled from the original offer.

I got ripped off by some Chinese people because I wanted to show my friend Chinese cuisine. They had one price on the menu, and when the bill came, they charged me another price. They claimed, "oh, so sorry, this is an old menu, and the prices have changed." It was a difference of 2 dollars, and I really didn't want my friend's first experience with Chinese food to be me screaming at the waiter over something so small--but I was pretty mad. Even though I get annoyed when people on the street charge me artificially high prices, I can understand their motive--their poor, and honestly, if I was in that situation and I knew a foreigner would be willing to pay twice as much for something, I would probably try to get away with it too. But I was really expecting the people in the restaurant to be a little nicer to me since there are not that many Chinese people in Senegal--and they own a nice (and expensive) restaurant and really don't need to resort to tactics like that to feed their families. If anyone visits Senegal, never eat Chinese food! They also served us "beef" that I'm not entirely sure was beef...I thought it looked kind of like pork (my friend is Muslim and cannot eat pork), but the owner said, "this is from the back of the cow, that's why it is different, very good texture." Before that, the owner kept pointing at my friend while addressing me in Chinese, saying, "black people like fish and things that are fried." I really hope it wasn't pork, for my friend's sake.

Later, we went to an international fair, in which people from all of West Africa set up stands and sold items from their country. I really, really wanted to buy this shirt with matching dress that had stingrays all over it (it looked a lot better than it sounds), but controlled myself. There were sandals from Pakistan with bells and fake gemstones on them, and of course, tons of fabric, beads, bangles, and headwear. Most outfits here come as a 3 piece set--shirt, bottoms (either a skirt of pants), and a head wrap. At the end, there was a concert featuring a famous Mbalax singer.

I had ice cream and chocolate, and slept for as long as I wanted. Also met with some peace corp volunteers in Dakar, who were very nice. I plan to go back to the fair later, since it lasts until the 12th of December.

Friday, November 30, 2012

Dreaming of Boston

Last night I had a dream that I was back in Boston. I think this happens to me when I feel fatigued somewhere far away. Even though I love to travel, it's very different when I'm traveling for work instead of pleasure. When backpacking through Europe I shared a hotel room with 40 people, and woke up excited to explore the city. I had to deal with all the usual troubles--people charging me artificially inflated prices, heckling me with goods on the street, struggling with language issues, etc. Here however, it exhausts me. After a long day of interviewing people, I want to go home and lie down. I don't even know what to say anymore. Everyone has cancer, and statistically, about 80% of them are in advanced stages. I love my job, but I also think I've turned something off in my brain.

I've always said that I don't really have a "home," because I grew up in Boston, but my parents have since moved away from there, and most of my close friends have too. It's times like these however, that I realize how much I miss Boston. I have some fragmented memories of Taiwan and Philadelphia, but I moved to the Boston area when I was in kindergarten, and left when I was 22. I spent one year in San Francisco, constantly wanting to go back to the East Coast, and three years in New York just waiting for law school to be over. Even though I've had fun in other parts of the US, in Boston I never worried. After returning from a long trip, I'd often fall asleep in the car. I'd wake up because there is a large bump in the road as we turn towards our house, and I'd feel the car slow and roll up as we went over it--that's how I knew I was home. My house there was over 200 years old, and beautiful, done in the colonial style.

In my dream however, I wasn't at home--I had gone back to BU (Boston University), and was visiting all the places that I used to go to. I suppose college is a great time for everyone because you are old enough to have a lot of freedom, but young enough to not have any real responsibility. Whenever I'm feeling overwhelmed--whether in Tanzania, San Francisco, or New York, I dream of Boston. I guess Boston really is my home. It's where a great majority of my best memories were created, but it can never be the same since all the people that I love have left (except one friend). If I visit maybe it will feel empty. There is some strange new family living in my old house, and I probably can't access any of the dorms on campus now that I'm not a student anymore. Nevertheless, I think I need to visit. Although it will be pretty cold there, so maybe I'll wait...until April. 

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Senegalese Hospitality

At the hospital, there is a 3 year old girl who is always happy. She likes to share her food with me; she'll take a piece of apple, lick it, then gnaw on it, then hand it to me. After her mom peels a clementine for her, she rolls it around in her hands and breaks off pieces, making sure to give a portion to me and my interpreter. I politely hold it in my fist because I had seen her put it in her mouth first, but then she comes and pries open my fingers to check if I have eaten it or not. Ultimately, I say that I'm extremely full and give it back to her, feeling slightly guilty because I know Senegalese people don't like it when you decline their offerings.

The people here are very hospitable. One doctor invited me to his house for dinner with his family, and several have taken us out to dinner during the past weeks, at quite expensive restaurants. It's not a question of means though. At the hospital, one patient who told me that she could barely afford to feed herself and her children, yet when she bought rice with chicken and onions (mostly onions) for lunch, she enthusiastically invited me to share her meal.

This past week has been more difficult because Senegal is completely out of oral morphine, and doctors have run out of their private supplies (usually donations obtained abroad). The shortage began about two months ago and now every pharmacy, hospital, and clinic is out--and new stock will not come until January, 2013. People are suffering, especially those in advanced stages. We do so much report writing for advocacy, when honestly, I think the best advocacy would be to abduct someone from the ministry and take them to a cancer ward that has run out of morphine.

Some photos of food.

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Back to Dakar

I am going to head back to Dakar, and I feel like today is one of those days that I'm just annoyed with everything. Similar to those days where I look around and everything is fantastic, there are certain times when I travel and I feel fed up. No, I don't want to buy your painting. No, I don't want to visit your store. No, I'm not interested in whatever it is you are trying to sell me. In Dakar, there are a lot of unemployed people with nothing better to do than follow foreigners around the city, trying to get them to give you money. Sometimes, I'm tempted just to throw a dollar at them so that they'll leave me alone, but it's the principle of the matter--I don't want them to think that heckling people will earn rewards. On the streets of St. Louis there are bands of children wandering around. "Chinaaaaaaaaaa!!" They yell. And then, "Give me monnaaaaaaaay!!"

Some kids are actually cute and interested in learning more about me, since I suppose they don't see that many Asian people. Others however, can just be annoying. As I'm walking, one kid runs at me, slaps me on the arm like he'd hit a crocodile or some other dangerous creature, and runs away cackling like he's just completed a deadly mission. "China!" "Japan!" "Tubab!" Normally I ignore it, but some days I snap and I say, "You know there are a LOT of countries in Asia, and they're as different as Tanzania is from Senegal!"

It's hot here, and for the past two weeks I've been wearing long pants and covering my shoulders out of respect for local tradition--a local tradition that is fundamentally unfair. I've started arguing with the men who try to convince me that polygamy is a good thing. "How would you feel if you had to eat bread for the same day, the rest of your life?" One man asks me. "A man must have multiple woman, one cannot have only one."

"I agree," I say, "It would be very boring to eat only bread all the time. That's why women should have multiple husbands." If you're going to be a polygamous culture, at least be fair.

Of course, they're all horrified when I say that, and start muttering stuff in their native language. "No no," one says, "women don't want that. A woman should only have sex with her [one] husband."

Well fuck you and your sexist traditions. It's too hot here for pants so I'm wearing my shorts. Be offended!

Granted, I'm feeling braver because I know my male Senegalese friend will be accompanying me today since we are going to Dakar together. People leave you alone when you are walking with a man, because apparently, that woman has already been claimed.  

Saturday, November 24, 2012

St. Louis

Tonight I'm missing a gigantic West African cross dressing street festivity because I'm too tired from work. Earlier this morning, the ambulance driver dropped me off at the gas station, instructing the station pumper to look after me and ensure I got on a vehicle to St. Louis. I waited for about two hours at the gas station, shaking hands with random people, and answering questions from various men. It seems that here in Senegal, all I do is talk about drugs and sex. Drugs of course, I have to talk about for my work, since access to medication is a big component of our project. I thought Senegal was a conservative, Muslim country, but it seems everyone I meet on the street wants to talk about sex.

"What would you say if your husband wanted to have sex five time in five days?"
"Have you and your husband waited for marriage before having sex?"
"Here we have a big party when a girl loses her virginity, do you celebrate that too?"
"Senegalese woman never want to have sex."
"African men are different from American men, we are too much for one woman to handle."

Given how much Senegalese men seem to focus on sex, you would think that Senegalese women wouldn't have to try hard at all, but at the market, the women tell me, "if you wear this dress, I promise, magic will happen in the bed room," or, "men love this color, it sets them on fire."

Especially towards the end of the week, I'm exhausted, and I don't want to talk at all--let alone use the brain power to conjur up polite answers, in French, about the love life I have with my fake husband.

As I sat by the gas station, the others sitting with me offered me yet another type of berry from a local tree. "It's like candy," they explained. Only it's not. It's really bitter. You're supposed to suck on it until only the seed remains (I suppose that's what they mean when they compared it to candy), and when I go to spit it out before the adequate amount of time, they all yell, "NO!" Apparently it cures all sorts of ailments. When the bus comes, they all jump up and run after it, yelling at it to stop, pushing me towards the right direction. People here are very nice to me, I suppose the least I could do is answer their awkward questions.

The bus is definitely worse than the sept-place. There are no aisles because there is a folding seat that comes down to fill that space. At any stop, a swarm of people selling bags of sugar, flip flops, baobab seeds, or boiled eggs surge onto the bus, leaning on top of me to try to stuff their goods in the faces of the passengers behind me. I'm luckily seated near the front, but there is no space and I have to keep my heavy backpack on my lap. The man next to me leans over and says, pointing to the man on my other side, "he is mentally ill." At first I think he is joking, but apparently the man is his younger brother, and every 3 months they have to go to Dakar to refill his prescription. "What are you talking about," the brother asks, suspiciously.

"Just that you are going to Dakar," I say, feeling nervous that I'm sitting next to someone who warrants a warning. The brother smiles happily, and then proceeds to fall asleep as soon as the bus starts moving. He's actually a great person to have seated next to me, because he sleeps with his hands folded in front of him, taking up very little space. And he's silent, unlike his brother, who wants to ask me about my fake husband.

We stop by an open field, and some of the men--the ones that can manage to climb over the seats and get to the door--go out to use the bathroom. After having waited at the gas station for so long, I really have to go too, so I step out. I inform the driver that I plan to go to the bathroom (so he doesn't leave without me), and apparently they think that's a riot. "You can use this bush," a man yells at me, after he zips up his pants. I don't particularly want to use a bush that someone else has literally just used, but there is no other foliage behind which to take cover. All the men are staring at me, but when you have to go you have to go--it would still be a few hours before we reached St. Louis. So I duck behind the bush, ignoring the fact that I could see some of them craning their necks to try to look, shove my bag in front of me to sort of hide myself, and pee as quickly as I can. Then I run back to the bus, to the laughter of the driver and some of my fellow passengers, who wink at me at though we've just shared a special moment.

They drop me off at the gas station in St. Louis, where I take a cab to my hotel. "500," he says. I'm so used to being ripped off that I hear "5000," and I yell, "WHAT! It should be 1000!" He's a nice guy though, and still gives me the fare for 500.

I spend some time walking through the narrow alleys. St. Louis is small, an island like Manhattan that sits on the Senegal River. There are goats running around everywhere, munching on garbage and "bahhhing" at each other. It's like a throaty chorus everywhere I go. Down every street, there are groups of children playing soccer, barefoot in the sand. The streets here have seashells stuck in the cement. I come across a wall to which at least 10 sheep are leashed. Two women invite me to sit, and tell me about the Muslim New Year.

"It's a huuuuge party," one girl says.

"Yes," the other adds. "Tonight all of these sheep you see here are going to be KILLED." She really emphasizes the word killed.

"We cook them with cous cous!"

"And then men dress up in women's clothes, and women dress in men's clothes!"

They invite me to their house for this giant sheep slaughtering fest, and I would have liked to go, but I'm simply too tired from the long trip that I had. I have a balcony, so maybe I'll peek outside later. 

Friday, November 23, 2012

Senegalese Clothing

At home, I wear sweat pants to go to see the doctor. After all, their offices are full of germs, why would I wear my best clothes there? Here in Senegal, people get decked out for the most minor engagements. They pay a lot of attention to their appearance, and often expect others to do the same. Initially, I would do interviews in jeans and a light cotton shirt because we’re surrounded by people in scrubs. Since I’ve started dressing nicer however, I find that the process has been a lot smoother, It’s probably a sign of respect—if you don’t make an effort to look nice, it means that the person you are meeting with is not worth that time. Coco Chanel did say that she cannot understand when people (actually, I think she specified women, but let’s say people) do not bother to fix themselves up when going out the door because you never know when you will meet your destiny—and it’s always good to be prepared for destiny.

Well, I really hope that I don’t meet my destiny here, because I’ve never felt so unglamorous in my life. Senegalese women are elegant. Many are accustomed to carrying things on their heads, so even without a load, they walk with their necks elongated, chin raised, back erect, moving only their hips as they make their way down the street. I’ve tried to imitate them, but I don’t think it looks quite the same on me—I think I tend to look arrogant instead of graceful.

Today I went to a meeting, and felt like a moth among butterflies. Senegalese cloth makes me think of fruit and gemstones. The colors are so bright that you can taste them, although maybe I’m just too obsessed with food. The dresses come in mango yellow, papaya orange, watermelon pink, lime green. They also come in amethyst purple, ruby red, deep gold, and sapphire blue. Some are coated with a type of wax and beaten to a shine so that they look like silk. Both women and men wear a pearly white that is magically impervious to the dust that seems to cling to my clothes. It’s like I’ve gone to the world of Oz, where everyone wears flowing robes, bright headwear, and jewelry made of gold. Borders of sleeves are embroidered, and sparkling thread, or even glitter or sequins, are sewn into the fabric. There are an endless variety of color combinations, of eyelets, ruffles and lace. Frequently, women have a delicate scarf or shawl that matches their attire, which billows behind them as they walk. They look so cool that I feel a compulsive desire to go clothes shopping.

In Senegal, if you put on something shiny, people know that you mean business. Here I spend my time traipsing around hospitals, scuttling to keep up with doctors as they make their way around. I’m not used to the heat, and by the end of the day I’m a steaming mess. Something in the room doesn’t smell very good, and I have a sinking feeling that it’s me. It’s just SO hot here. The Senegalese however, do not break a sweat. They’re wearing twice the amount of clothing that I am, yet at most their forehead gets a bit shiny, giving them a pleasant looking glow. At the meeting, someone turns off the air conditioner, and I feel like I’ve been put in a jar and I’m running out of air—the heat just hangs so heavily. Tomorrow I will go to St. Louis.


Thursday, November 22, 2012

Ndioum


There is nothing in the district of Podor—there are huts made of sticks and pale yellow grass plopped sporadically across the desert. There is one health center for the entire district, and the regional hospital covers an unreasonably large geographical area. My ride comes to pick me up in the morning, and it’s an ambulance! Not just any ambulance—it’s a rioded up four by four ambulance with huge tires for the dirt terrain. I tell the driver that I feel guilty using an ambulance as my transport when he probably has more important things to attend to. “No problem,” he assures me cheerfully. I guess few people actually call the ambulance—they live so far away that it’s futile—plus, most cannot afford it, and many don’t have telephones. At the health center in Podor, they send emervency cases to the hospital in Ndioum, a bumpy 40-45 minute ride. I’ve luckily never ridden in an ambulance before, and I can’t help but enjoy myself because it’s one of the most comfortable vehicles that I’ve been in so far. The driver offers me something he called “tseep tseep”—that’s probably ot how it’s spelled. It’s a type of berry from a baobab tree. The fruit is grainy, bitter, and slightly sweet—with a gigantic pit in the middle. I really wanted to like it since it’s so exotic, but alas, I ended up spitting it out when the driver wasn’t looking. He meanwhile, eats them by the handful, spitting out pits like bullets. He offers me more, but I politely decline. The people here are so nice, and go out of their way to make me feel comfortable. At the hospital, everyone takes time to answer all my questions, despite the fact that they are overworked and underpaid. Doctors here have to take on so many different roles—they have to be doctors, but they also have to act as advocats, social workers, psychiatrists, pharmacists—same with the nurses. People just do what needs to be done.
The auberge that I’m staying at is owned by a little French man. He is happy and grouchy at the same time, laughing easily, but also expressing strong opinions about many things. We talk about Dakar, and he says, “I hate Dakar. It’s the worst capital city, it is the only capital city where there is nothing to see.” I mention that is has Goree Island and Lac Rose, but apparently they don’t count because they are not in the city center. I tell him that I want to go to St. Louis and he says, “I hate St. Louis. I’m never going there again in my life, it’s just terrible.” He hates public transportation, and often watches programs on TV about horrible things that happen all over the world. We talk about traditional healers and he throws his hands up and says, “they cause so many problems!!” Actually, he is right about that—traditional healers are the bane of modern doctors because they delay diagnosis. Doctors are frustrated when a child dies from a snake bite, or has to get his leg amputated from a fracture—problems easily treated in a hospital, but are aggravated  because people went to traditional healers instead. The marabous, as they are called, try to treat everything, from a fever to HIV, to cancer, to fistulas. They are far cheaper than the hospitals, and are also more familiar to the community. One doctor said that the marabous are the psychiatrists of the rural community—they offer comfort and hope. Where a doctor will say, “I don’t know what’s wrong with you, maybe you can be cured,” a marabou will say, “you will be fine, I can cure you.” The latter message is far more confident and reassuring, and when it also comes at a cheaper price, the choice seems obvious to many.

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Podor

As part of my project, I head to Podor to learn more about the availability of palliative care there. Lonely Planet advises people to spend the extra money for a "sept place" when travelling across the country. From the way they wrote about it, I was under the impression that sept places were the luxurious way of traveling--they take only 7 passengers, and are much faster and more comfortable than the rickety buses. Some of the buses, painted with bright colors, are called "rolling coffins" because they cause so many accidents. In reality, the buses are a super shitty way to travel, while the sept place is just a shitty way to travel. First of all, they are station wagons. They should only have 6 passengers because the back seat only has space for 2, but they cram 3 people in that space. There is no air conditioning, and as we drive through the arid heat of the Podor area, I feel like I'm in a microwave. Outside my window the grass is bleached white blond by the sun, and the "wind" that comes in through the window--open only at the front of the car--feels like it's coming from a hair dryer. As the car jumps and rumbles over the cracked road, swerving through pot holes, dust and sand billow in and cover me and my belongings in a coat of beige powder. I got stuck with the middle seat, so I have it coming at me from both directions, wedged between two fairly unhappy Senegalese people. We spend the entire ride with our thighs pressed against each others'. The seat comes up a bit, so that half of my butt is jammed on top of uncushioned metal, while the other half sinks into foam. There is a baby on the lap of the girl next to me. She's cute, but also spends a lot of the journey kicking me and grabbing my arms and face with her drool covered hands. Strangely, I'm actually in a good mood, and I offer to take care of the baby while the mother eats. The mother is a senior in high school, very kind, and one of the few people in the rural area that speaks French. I'm standing on the road side by a food stand in a small desert pit stop, with a baby that is obviously not mine balanced on my hip, while people try to sell me stuff in Poular; the passerbys stare at me with their mouths open because I look so out of place. When I see cute babies, I sometimes feel like I want one--NOW. But after holding this girl for 10 minutes, I begin to realize that she's a lot heavier than she looks--and it's neither the right time nor place, and probably won't be for some time. "Touba!" people yell. That means foreigner. "Come get your Touba," someone says when the driver comes back. By the time I arrive at the Auberge I'm exhausted. I cannot imagine how sick people, especially those in advanced stages of cancer, could withstand that journey--and many cannot afford a sept place and have to take the bus. I had left Dakar at 4 am, and arrived at Podor at 2 pm. After a quick visit to the local health center, I go back home and pass out. 

Monday, November 19, 2012

Taxi Sisters

There's a business in Senegal called "Taxi Sisters," which is a company composed of female taxi drivers. I tried to call their phone number, but it did not work--I guess my travel book is outdated. I figured it would probably be okay, but it not--I need to find that phone number. Since my supervisor, an enormous Dutch man with a beard, left on Saturday, I have had a lot more trouble with transportation.

First thing I learned: just because a man is married does not mean he won't aggressively hit on you. Apparently, the law here allows you to have up to four wives (although I haven't looked at the law, I've only heard this from people so it might be crap). Anyhow, people definitely do have multiple wives. My cab driver yesterday asked me if I would like to be his second wife. According to him, African men are very strong and are too much to handle for one woman alone. His wife asked him to go find another, and his goal is to have three wives.

I initially invented a fake boyfriend, but that is not enough to deter people. I promoted imaginary boyfriend to imaginary fiance, then finally I just started telling people that I'm married.

"If you don't let your husband have multiple wives," the cab driver warned, "he'll go around and 'gulu gulu' everywhere anyway. What are you going to do when he does that?"

"I'll kill him," I replied. My French is somewhat limited, so my range of responses are kept simple.

Of course, the cab driver thinks this is very funny, and says, "Oh okay, you will kill him, and then kill yourself?"

"Of course not," I say. "I'll kill him, hide his body, and then get remarried."

"Well don't let your husband come to Senegal," he says, "Because he will leave you for Senegalese women because they are much nicer."

I thought that guy was annoying, but he was not nearly as bad as the next guy. At the end of a long day of work I took a cab home, and agreed on a price of 3000 francs. We got lost, and it was nightfall. I was getting very scared. It was my fault that we go lost, but we were in the right neighborhood, only 5 minutes away from my hotel. However, it was by the beach, and no one else was there. The cab driver then said, "you have to pay me 7000 since we are lost, otherwise you can get out of the car." I had no choice but to agree, since I didn't want to be on the beach alone, with my laptop, and money that I had just changed. When we got to the hotel I told the doorman of my experience and asked him if he could find the taxi sister's phone number. Instead, he called the pervert from yesterday. I politely insisted that I wanted a female cab driver, and the guy from yesterday got offended and started asking me why I would not go with him. I was too exhausted to explain, especially in French, and still frazzled by the last cab ride, so I burst into tears and just said that I would feel more comfortable with a female driver because that was the only thing I could think of to say. I think men get very freaked out when women cry, so he backed away and left me alone.

I guess I'll have to find the phone number of the Taxi Sisters myself. So tired.

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Lac Rose et Village des Tortues

Today I went to the pink lake and the village of the turtles--sounds like something out of a children's book.

Right outside Dakar and its suburbs, there is a sanctuary that is home for over 150 injured African turtles and tortoises. My mother loves turtles (actually, she's obsessed with turtles), so I figured I had to go. Since I didn't have a lot of time, and I was a bit nervous about taking buses myself, I hired a driver for the day to take me to the pink lake and the turtle village. To be honest, the turtle village was just okay. I prefer marine turtles to land turtles; in the sea turtles glide gracefully, while on the land, they're awkward and slow. Very, very slowly, they extend their wrinkly necks from their shells, open their mouths, and take a tiny bite of something green. Apparently, this is the season that all the turtles reproduce. First of all, it's noisy because the male turtle emits this high pitched, croaking grunt every two seconds, like clock work. Second of all, it's pitiful because the female turtle just continues eating her food, makes an attempt to escape every now and then, then gives up and continues munching on leaves. Thirdly, according to the guide, the entire process lasts for an hour. After bearing witness to this clumsy ritual of theirs, I can't help but feel like tortoises are pathetic animals.


After leaving the village, I went to the pink lake. I imagined that it would only be a shimmer, but indeed, the entire lake is a light, coppery red color. It did not come out well in photos, but under the sun, the water is very pink. The unique color is due to the fact that the lake has 10 times the salt content of the ocean. Along the shores, people collect salt and sell if for about $2 for every 25 kilos. Along the lake, the salt creates a white foam that the people call, fleur de sel (salt flowers). When the wind blows, bit of foam float into the air. From far away, it looks like snow! The salt dunes, made of little white crystals, are piled high on the shore. I took a brief swim, and found myself floating like a buoy in the salty water. Even if I pulled my knees up to my chest, it was impossible to sink. The guide warned me to avoid getting water in my eyes, but I didn't listen and spent about 20 minutes frantically rubbing my eyes because I'd gotten salt into them.



This third photo is not my own--I pulled it from google to demonstrate what I saw, and what I wish my photo looked like!

I headed back to my new hotel, which is amazing. If anyone visits Dakar, they should stay at Lodge des Almadies. It's reasonably priced and very comfortable. The annoying this is they have a ridiculously expensive laundry service--it costs a dollar just to wash a pair of underwear! So, I washed a lot of my clothes myself in the sink--I probably could have billed the laundry to my company, but I felt ridiculous spending $10 on washing underwear alone. 

Saturday, November 17, 2012

Île de Gorée

Goree Island is a 20 minute ferry ride from Dakar, and famous because it was one of the points of transit during the trans-Atlantic slave trade. The ferries run frequently and quite reliably. As we pulled into the harbor, there were children swimming by the dock, yelling at the passengers in Wolof as they disembarked. Apparently they are asking people to toss coins into the water. Sure enough, one man tossed a 100 franc piece into the sea, and with a mad splash three children dove to retrieve it. It's probably not so difficult to see the glint of metal, since the sunlight passes straight through the clear water.

The island was founded centuries ago by the Portuguese, then it was controlled by the Dutch, and finally the French. It's a wild and colorful place. The flowers have completely taken over, and no one seems to mind. Along the old, stone walls, twisting vines crawl from top to bottom, braiding with each other, forming a tapestry of multicolored blossoms. I cannot tell where one plant ends and another begins. They hang heavy on the buildings like thick locks of hair, bursting with yellows, whites, pinks, reds, oranges, purples and even blues. As we walk through the quiet alleys, made of cobblestone and sand, the petals on the ground look so thoughtfully strewn, as though someone took the time to lay them there to decorate the path for our arrival.




Goats and cats, both rather scraggly looking, roam freely. Goree is famous for artists, and the winding path on top of the castle is lined with stalls. Many of the artists use cloth with African prints in their work, something that I plan to try when I go home. Others paint with sand. I liked a lot of the paintings, but when I saw one work shop I decided I did not want to buy. The sand paintings are produced in an assembly line manner. One person does the sketch, another glues on the dark brown lines, and then they put on the light brown lines. I think the acrylic paintings probably have more character, but even so, a lot of them seem to be catering to a specific expectation. I did see a few that I probably would have bought, depending on the price, but I didn't think they would fit in my suitcase.


We visited one of the oldest stone mosques as well. The entire island is tiny, and you can walk it in its entirety in less than an hour.

The highlight of Goree is the House of Slaves. It's characteristic winding staircase is often photographed, even though signs deliberately say, "no photography." I took a picture too. The top floor was where the slave traders lived, in comfort and luxury. Meanwhile, the bottom floor has a series of horrid, tiny rooms with little slits for windows. There's a special room for "recalcitrant slaves" underneath the staircases, which have no windows. When slaves were sick, they would throw them out to the sharks. That disturbed me, not only because it's disgustingly inhumane, but also because I had no idea Senegalese waters were shark infested. I wonder what would have happened, had the tables been turned. If Africa had developed faster than Europe, would the Africans have sailed North and put all the white people in chains? It's hard to believe anyone can live without remorse in a house while just below them, men, women and children are cramped together in stifling heat, many of whom are sick and dying.



When we went back to Dakar, we visited the children's hospital, this time with a small gift for two of the patients that we interviewed. Most of the people in Senegal do not have a photo of themselves, let alone a camera. I had brought mine to the hospital so that I could photograph their facilities. Our interpreter asked one of the patients if they would like their photo taken, and they said yes very enthusiastically. I began to think about how much photographs mean to me. When I miss someone, I find a photograph of them so that I can look at their face. For me, pictures of people I love or care for are everywhere--on my phone, online, available with the click of a button. It's always hard to lose people who are important to you, but I think it's even harder when you can never see their face again. We took pictures of two of the children with their mothers, who were staying at the hospital with them, and printed out the photos at a Kodak store. I knew the kids would be happy, but I underestimated how happy. The seven year old child kept looking at the photo and looking up and smiling with his mouth wide open. I like him a lot because he loves art, and his mom has a thick pile of pictures from coloring books that he has completed. Pictures are such a small, cheap thing that it's easy to forget how powerful they are. Photos are the tangible preservation of a memory, and in them people are immortal.

I got my first, good night of sleep yesterday. Hoping to have another tonight!

Friday, November 16, 2012

Lagon I

Whenever I am abroad, there are always certain moments, or even days, when I suddenly feel enchanted by my surroundings. It's hard to describe the feeling. It's different from the excitement I feel when I see something cool, or the happiness that arises when I eat good food, or the satisfaction I get when my planning falls into place. These moments always take me by surprise, like an unexpected traveller's high that makes colors seem brighter, fragrances stronger, sounds more clear. The scene around me engraves itself deeply into my memory. For lack of a better word, it's magical.

When I first arrived in Dakar, I was not particularly impressed because it looks like a city that's barely being held together on its hinges. As you walk around, make shift fences are built with a patchwork of tin roofing, unfinished buildings have become strewn with garbage, and the sidewalks are crumbling or missing entire chunks. Slowly however, I've grown to enjoy the city. It's a bit damaged, unpredictable, and different from what I am accustomed to. Dakar, and certain other cities in developing countries, have a resiliency in them that one cannot help but admire. The same features that irked me upon my arrival are now familiar--they are like wrinkles and marks on the city's face that are inevitably a part of its character. In about a week however, I'll probably find something that makes me frustrated with it again.

Tonight, I went to the most romantic and beautiful restaurant I have ever been to in my life. One of the doctors we have been working with took us there, it's where he an his wife go for their anniversary every year (and they've been married for 35 years). It's a place called Lagon I, and it's situated right on top of the beach. As you walk through the dark green palm trees and descend the stone steps, lined and dimly lit with pale blue christmas lights, you come to a private stretch of soft sand. The restaurant is built on a dock, and the interior is decorated to look like a boat. An enormous aquarium looms over the entrance, where a man made pool has been built to collect the sea water at high tide. Dogs and cats (the owner's pets) roam freely inside, and there is a long, open air patio that hangs far over the sea. As you sit outside, you can feel the perfect amount of a breeze and listen to the ocean. In this area, the waves are forceful. They roar as they roll in, and whisper as they slide out. The rhythm slowly draws away the stress from the day, and for a brief amount of time I feel like I belong in the city. Like I've arrived at home, even though I'm far away.
  

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Dakar Part 3

I spend most of the day working so for now, the only photos will be of restaurants. Maybe I'll get a chance to go to Goree Island over the weekend, but we'll see.

I did my first series of patient interviews today! We had a really great translator help us with Wolof (and sometimes French too). People here express a lot of appreciation and thank you for helping their country. I'm trying to think how Taiwanese people would respond if some foreigners came into their country for the purpose of reforming the health system. Somehow, I don't think they'd be as friendly about it. Americans would probably be even worse. Even here though, I think there is a lot of disillusionment, and justifiably so. They've had several organizations come to ask questions, and no change has actually happened. Unfortunately, change happens slowly in democracies. When you have a system that supposedly takes the people's opinion into account, there is bureaucracy and delay. It's frustrating, and even more so when there is no transparency.

Now if I were dictator of the world...there'd be global health care. I'd increase taxes on cigarettes, legalize marijuana, tax that too, and since I'm dictator of the entire world we don't need national armies, so all the funding that goes into that would be available as well. Imagine how many hospitals the budget for the US army alone could build. Free chemotherapy for everyone! 

But I digress. 

We were going to go to a Senegalese restaurant, but it was closed so we went to a Lebanese one instead. I know I've already talked about how good the food is, but I have to say it again. Oh my god. The food is so good here. If French food and soul food had a steamy affair, the love child would be Senegalese food. Actually, I haven't been eating traditional Senegalese food. The vegetables are slow cooked with butter and spices, and the meat is always tender and well seasoned (except for white meat chicken, that's been mediocre some times). I almost had street food today. Our interpreter bought this epic looking sandwich with grilled cubes of beef (from a skewer), onions, and french fries in it, with ketchup all over. I wanted to buy one too, but he advised that I wait until next week, when my stomach is more acclimated. 

After doing the interviews however, it's uncomfortable to realize how much I spend on food. I guess if you get bogged down on things like that it will be really hard to work in the human rights industry. I swing from getting extremely emotional about my work to being completely detached. 10,000 Senegalese Francs, or $20, buys one treatment of dialysis. It also buys lamb on rice, stewed with chunks of more lamb, and this crispy dessert that looks like a nest with a cloud of cream on top, sprinkled with pistachios. The restaurant we went to, Farid, is tricky. Instead of asking you if you want dessert, they bring out this tray of magnificence and ask if you would want anything from it. Of course, there are no prices on the tray and everything makes you want to pick it up with your bare hands and stuff it into your mouth. If I ever open a restaurant, I'm using this tactic too. 



Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Dakar Part 2

Dakar seems to have more signs of poverty than Arusha. We walked by an area littered with human feces, and on almost every other street, there is a barefooted beggar sleeping on the ground.

Unlike in Arusha, Dakar's history of colonization has left a conspicuous mark. Long, French style baguettes are sold from carts every morning, and the restaurant scene uses butter, butter, and more butter. Everything I order is soaked in butter (and delicious). The food is very fresh, and so far I haven't had a meal that I did not enjoy. Actually, the food is amazing.

In the city, most people speak both French and Wolof, and use a mixture of both languages when they speak to each other. 

Yesterday, we visited the only children's oncology ward in all of Senegal, at Le Dantec Hospital. WHO estimates that there are about 600-800 new cases of cancer in children each year in Senegal. However, Le Dantec only gets about 120 new patients each year. That means hundreds of children with cancer are left without any sort of medical treatment. They're so small and so thin, walking around with needles in their arms, or curled up in the waiting room looking exhausted. Others actually appear to have good energy, and are smiling and playing, showing off their trinkets and toys. I find my work very interesting, but also emotionally draining.

Today, I spent most of my time speaking in French. I'm always pleasantly surprised at how much easier a language comes to you when you are completely surrounded by it. It's also helpful that the people here speak very clearly. We went to the Almadies today, which is at the most western point in all of West Africa. There, the streets are clean, well maintained, and have fewer indications of the difficult lifestyles that most Senegalese have to live. As expected, it seems most of the expats live in that area too (or at least, that's where I saw the most expats). The new American Embassy is there and it's enormous, with shiny lettering. There's also a very Soviet/Maoist monument with a man holding a child who is pointing up towards the sky, with a woman behind him, poised like they're about to make an epic climb.

Note however, these are just my first impressions. I haven't had a lot of time to see the city since we usually have meetings all day (and into the evening).

Sunday, November 11, 2012

Arrival in Dakar, Senegal

It has been two years since I visited a developing country, or anywhere that wasn't a big city, so I was really excited for the opportunity to go to Senegal. The first thing that struck me was how quickly it seemed we landed. When flying into New York or San Francisco, the city looms beneath you as soon as you transcend the clouds, and even though the plan is moving at hundreds of kilometers per hour, I feel as though we move in slow motion towards it. First the neighborhoods become larger, then you can make out the windows, and finally the black specks become cars, and then there is a brief expanse of flat, open land as you zoom into the runway. In Senegal, the buildings are not large, so by the time I saw the painted, yellow structures and the red dirt roads, it only took a minute for so for the plane to hit the runway. Dakar's airport probably has only one or two runways. It has one baggage carousel, and we descended the plane by staircase instead of walking to the gates. People had always told me Dakar was a big city, but I guess they meant big for an African city. While it's quite large compared to Arusha, it's small compared to Quito, tiny when compared to Taipei, and miniscule when compared to New York City.

It's not too hot when I stepped off the plane, but it was muggy. Within a few minutes, I noticed the dryness in my mouth, the feeling of dirt on my tongue. As in Arusha, Dakar has a lot of fine, powdery, tan colored dirt. Even while walking on the concrete I develop a very natural looking tan. Our hotel, which costs about 70 dollars per night, is clean but run down--it is comparable to the $5 hostels that I stayed in while I was in Ecuador. I was warned that Dakar can be a very expensive city for travellers--luckily I am here for work, otherwise I definitely could not afford to stay for so long.

I am visiting Senegal for 5 weeks in order to work on health and human rights issues. Thus, the bulk of my time will be spent touring hospitals and clinics, speaking with doctors, patients and family members, and doing research on regulation of medicine. As a result, I'll probably see a side of Senegal that most foreigners do not see...and hopefully won't catch anything in the process. I'm recovering from pneumonia so my immune system is not at its best state.

Our project focuses on palliative care, which is care for non-curable diseases. Much of palliative care centers on pain management. People in the last stages of cancer, HIV/AIDS, and other life limiting diseases such as sickle cell anemia and diabetes, develop excruciating pain which can only be managed with opiates. Unfortunately, the developing world consumes only 6% of the world's supply of morphine. Many African countries have no resources for palliative care at all. It's especially saddening for children--in developed countries, about 80% of childhood cancers are cured, while in Africa, that number is only 3-5%. The work that we are doing here will hopefully help prompt development of national palliative care strategies in West Africa.

Today, we met with a urologist who is very knowledgeable about cancer and palliative care. He was kind of enough to drive us around the city and show us the major hospitals and clinics, and even took us out to lunch. I'm so excited for my project, but also completely exhausted right now. The flight I took to get here was an overnight flight, and there was a lot of turbulence, aggravated by the noisy presence of 4 children who incessently screamed messages to each other from across their rows. I'll try my best to stay up until 9 pm tonight, so I can get scheduled to Senegalese time.   

Monday, August 20, 2012

Davis Moo-nlight Half Marathon

I realize that I forgot to post this earlier!

Anyhow, I took a break from bar studying to run my 3rd half marathon. It's at Davis, a small college town about an hour from San Francisco. The half marathon begins at 7:00, shortly before sunset, and during the race runners are given glow sticks and light up necklaces. After the race, there are concerts and lots of beer. I always thought it was not healthy to drink alcohol after running, but maybe that's a myth? Anyhow, I couldn't go to the festivities because I had to go back home to study.

The beginning of the race was great. I had been feeling energetic, and easily made it through the first 5 miles. Around mil 5 however, my knee suddenly started to hurt a lot. By mile 9 it was excruciating. I'm not sure what I did, but I was no longer able to bend my knee. I wanted to finish the race because the medal is so nice (and also because I hate quitting things mid way). I ended up finishing in about 2.5 hours. My time was okay because I had been running so quickly during the first part of it.

The medal from the race glows in the dark, and we also got a glow in the dark technical shirt.


After the race though, I realized that I really injured both my knee and ankle. I have still been resting, and hopefully I'll still be able to run the New York Marathon in November. I'm going to start on the elliptical this week, and will hopefully be doing some light running by the end of August!

DC Again

I went back to DC for the birthday of one of my best friends from college. I mainly hung around Dupont Circle, since she goes to school at SAIS (Johns Hopkins). It's much more quiet and less crowded than New York is. During the day, many stores were not even open, and there were few people on the streets. We ran into some aggressive homeless people, but that was about it. In the circle itself there are chess boards, where many people can bring their own pieces and play.

Since it was restaurant week, we tried a French place called Bistro Bistro. I would highly recommend it! Their normal menu is reasonably priced, and every dish was excellent--we had mussels, crab and artichoke dip, seafood linguine, lamb, creme brulee, and souflee. Later that evening, we went to a Hibachi place.

I wonder if Hibachi is actually Japanese, or if it's a gimmick. Most Hibachi places are pretty standard--they make a lot of noise with their spatulas, throw eggs into the air, and make an onion volcano. Since I was in DC to see my friends, I really didn't do any interesting tourist activities.

There's a good tapas place called...Espacio, I think, and a good coffee place called Peregrine Espresso. They have a summer drink with masala in it.

Bistro Bistro

Hibachi

On another note, the SAIS student lounge is great! Too bad Columbia has no student lounge like this. The more I think about it, Columbia kind of sucks. SAIS has a ping pong table, pool table, plush sofas, vending machines, and small kitchen in their student lounge. The best part is, no one steals anything, so the ping pong paddles, pool balls, etc. are always there for people to use. I think Columbia law would have been a much better place if we had a similar lounge. 

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Rethinking Formal Wear: Dress to Impress, or Dress to Waste Less?

I accidentally deleted this post...so here it is again.

An article that I wrote last year, that I thought to bring up:

During my internship at the UN, which I really enjoyed, the only complaint that I had was that the meeting rooms were so cold. Since I interned during the summer, I would walk to work in 80 or 90 degree heat (Fahrenheit of course); entering the UN building felt like opening the door in the freezer aisle at the super market. Goosebumps flared all over my exposed arms and legs like a rash as I sat down to take notes at a meeting that, ironically, was on climate change and sustainable development. At this point, most scientific experts have accepted or confirmed that pollution, including excessive use of air conditioning, has an enormous impact on global warming. Why then, are our buildings still so cold? Though I was uncomfortable in my skirt and short sleeved blouse, I realized that the temperature felt great when I chose to wear a pant suit. In my suit, I was sweating and panting on my way to work, but the icy blast of air as I entered the lobby was a welcomed relief. If the UN, and other business buildings, raised the thermostat during summer days, people would be comfortable in short sleeves and other warm weather clothing, but wearing a suit would become unbearable. Many professional buildings therefore, must maintain lower temperatures in order to accommodate people who wear suits. In turn, more people, like myself, wear suits in order to be comfortable in these temperatures. In many organizations, especially the UN, people are too busy addressing pressing problems, such as the impending sinking of small island nations, to worry about clothing. Our expectations for dress however, are having an impact on our modification of our climate, which in turn has an impact on the health of our planet. Clothing is trivial compared to piracy, war and famine, but in turn it is also something that is far easier to address and change. I believe that we should begin by rethinking the “suit.”

Despite having approximately 200 nations in the world, with different traditional dress, the suit has become the universally accepted dress for business and other formal occasions. In fact, when most of us say or hear the word “suit” in English, we assume that we are talking about long pants and a matching jacket, usually worn with a long sleeved dress shirt with a tie. Originating in European culture, and having evolved during the past centuries, this style was brought to the rest of the world through diplomacy but also through colonization. When many European nations, such as Britain and France, were expanding their empires, they promoted the idea that their cultures were civilized, and local savages should learn from them in order to advance. While many people were forced to follow European ways, other people voluntarily tried to emulate them, hoping that their own nation could become more powerful. As a result, several regions across the world began to accept and adopt certain European norms. In the 18th and 19th century, international relations, for many nations, were solely comprised of their interaction with America or the European Nations; many of these relations were not on equal level either, they were between colonizer and colonized. Colonizers of course, would not don local dress, and may not have taken an individual seriously if he wore his own traditional formal wear. Thus, the suit became the default dress for many important meetings, and though the number of colonies has decreased dramatically, that tradition still continues today.

What if we walked into a meeting on humanitarian disaster and all of the delegates were wearing cultural clothing? What if they were wearing warm weather clothing, with bare arms and legs? Many of us would feel as though the meeting is not as important, or that the people did not take the subject seriously, because we have all come to expect men to wear suits for formal occasions. I specify men, because women’s business wear is more flexible, possibly because women were not even allowed or able to participate in business or politics until the 20th century and were not part of that gradual standardization process, or have not been in the field long enough for such conventions to develop. Men have very little, if any, flexibility for business wear. Many of us have grown up with the idea that suits are, essentially, the only option for men in formal occasions. Perhaps they can vary the pattern on their ties, the color of their dress shirts, or the fabric of the suit itself, but the outfits generally remain the same. A man who shows up at a professional meeting in anything else but a suit may be regarded as rude, or ignorant of social norms. At the moment, imagining world leaders, CEOs, people who hold positions of power, sitting around in summer wear while discussing nuclear proliferation, is comical.

In some organizations, such as the United Nations, cultural attire is now an acceptable option. Cultural attire however, though tolerated, is not necessarily encouraged, and definitely not universally acceptable. The Asia-Pacific Forestry Week has declared 7 November 2011 to be a “traditional costumes day.” Would any of us refer to a suit as a costume? How many of us would risk going to an interview in cultural attire? Our adherence to suits is ingrained in our society—a suit is universally acceptable and always a safe option. Thus, even in scorching heat, even if you can fry an egg on a car hood and tires pop from gas expansion, business men, politicians, will still be wearing high collars, long sleeved shirts and pants, with a jacket on top and a thick tie wrapped around their necks. In turn, businesses will keep their premises at unreasonably low temperatures in order to accommodate these people. Is it really worth the impact to our environment to maintain this clothing formality that essentially requires us to modify our climate beyond what is actually necessary?

The world would benefit from a fashion challenge, one that would design formal attire that is adjusted for a future that needs to consider reducing carbon emissions. So far, we still have no antidote to global warming, and currently the best method that each individual can make is to pollute less. If many of the business buildings kept their thermostats at a warmer temperature, the level of carbon emissions would decrease significantly each year. People would be able to remain comfortable at these higher temperatures if it was socially acceptable for them to wear lighter clothing, such as summer wear, or certain types of cultural attire. The obvious benefit of this change in style is the amelioration of environmental damage and reduction of energy costs. Savings on energy can then be devoted to other activities, which can be especially helpful for organizations like the UN with limited budgets and a huge array of responsibilities. Flexibility in attire might also encourage more people to wear garments from different cultural backgrounds, contributing to the visual diversity of our businesses. Equal opportunity advocates could also argue that men would have more freedom to express themselves through dress. Such change may be difficult, primarily for reasons of vanity and the current uncertainty of proper alternatives. It is always difficult to break custom, especially in vocations that depend much on formality. Even today, many individuals might subconsciously consider an individual in a colorful cultural “costume” to be less competent and intelligent than an individual in a suit. It is an important topic to consider, especially since almost all of us agree that human beings are altering their environments, and by extension their planet, in ways that are no longer sustainable.

I would rather have my country’s delegates adjust their attire so they can be comfortable in an indoor environment that does not differ as drastically from the outdoor temperature, even if that attire consists of lightweight cotton and open toed shoes, than continue our current trend of massive waste of resources. With such measures, we can give scientists around the world more time to solve our environmental crisis, and better preserve our planet for our descendants. As the threat of global warming and a world with less land, biological diversity, and increased natural disasters looms before us, I hope that we can think creatively, and tackle the problems that are so clearly within our control, especially those that require a change as simple as picking a different outfit to wear. Formality has always been an important part of all relationships, whether business, diplomatic, or even personal. Despite these traditions, I hope that we are flexible enough to adapt to new emergencies, and recognize that some matters, such as environmental preservation, are more important than a style of clothing that essentially became a norm through centuries of European and American world domination.

The fashion industry could look to what was the traditional dress for notable public figures in countries with more extreme temperatures, such as India, or Kenya, or work on adapting summer wear. If we as individuals can let go of our traditional expectations of how an educated and intelligent person should dress, we can move forward and take practical steps to mitigating climate change. It would be nice if all of the problems that face the world, such as mass draught, over fishing, and oil spills, were as simple to change as the clothes that we don. As the French saying goes, “l’habit ne fait pas le moine,” or clothing does not make the man. Until we find a better solution to climate change, I hope that our vanity will not be the reason that prevents us from doing everything we can to protect the only planet that we have.

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Cupcake Update

So I finally made it to Sibby's, and I still think it's number one. In order of preference:
1. Cinnamon Latte
2. Lemon Drop
3. Mocha
4. Snickerdoodle
5. S'mores
6. Red Velvet

The S'mores one had a chocolate filling!



Friday, July 6, 2012

Cupcakes Galore!

Studying for the bar exam is one of those times in which one's mind is really fragile and easily susceptible to random breakdowns. Well, not necessarily random, but very easily triggered by any sort of crisis (or pseudo crisis).

Anyhow, yesterday I found myself with a really insignificant problem. My favorite cupcake place of all time is called Sibby's Cupcakery. It's in San Mateo, just 20-30 minutes outside of San Francisco. It has 500 something reviews on yelp, and almost 5 stars. I always, always go there whenever I go home to SF. Since my brother left for college however, he took the extra car with him, so I have no car. Unfortunately, Sibby's can only be reached by car (although perhaps I could run there, given my marathon training). Finally, when my parents went on vacation, I was able to use their car. This was 4th of July. Unfortunately, Sibby's was closed. I had been looking forward to it for days! 

The next day, on July 5th, I dutifully finished all my bar review work for the day, then called to see if Sibby's had any leftover cupcakes. That's the annoying thing about them--they don't actually have a store. They fulfill orders, and if there are any leftover, you can buy the leftovers. They usually purposely make a lot of leftovers. Unfortunately, the were sold out! Now in my normal state, I probably would have just waited until tomorrow. However, in my frazzled bar reviews studying phase, I snapped. I googled cupcakeries in the bay area, and ended up driving 10 miles to get a cupcake from a reputable place. I didn't want just any cupcake--I wanted a really good cupcake. 

Kara's Meyer Lemon Cupcake--my favorite of the 3 that I tried. It has a tart lemon filling.

The bigger two are from Kara's, and the small one is the banana cupcake from Sweetcakes--it got kind of squished from moving in my car, and I ate the key lime before I could take photos. 

So I drove 10 miles and went to a place called Sweetcakes, and bought a key lime cupcake and a banana cupcake. The key lime was really, really good, probably close to Sibby's. the banana was okay. Then, I drove another 6 miles, and bought 3 cupcakes from Kara's Cupcakes--one fleur de sel, which is chocolate with caramel filling and salt, one strawberry cream, and one lemon. All three were really good. I think I still like Sibby's best though, but that might just be because it's more difficult for me to get them? Anyhow, I would say Kara's was better than Sweetcakes. I think all of these are better than Magnolia Bakery, in NY. I think I'll have to start perfecting my cupcake baking so I'm less depending on 3rd parties. 

Thursday, June 28, 2012

New York Menace

I don't know when I'll have the opportunity to travel again, with working full time and studying for the bar--I feel like I'm stuck in a jar! A smelly jar where people put garbage on the streets instead of garbage cans like the rest of the civilized world and rats and roaches cavort in the streets...Actually, I do really like New York, but in the past month it has not been kind.

Through all my travels, I have never, ever gotten bed bugs. I've visited some very dirty places, and never have I had to deal with these awful little blood suckers. Seriously, I do not understand that fetish with vampires that has swept the young adult world, since any type of blood sucking creature is repulsive. Anyhow, after my 3 years at Columbia, I had to leave student housing. To be fair, I had been really excited to find a real apartment, and did not realize it would be such a nightmare. I was originally going to move to Brooklyn, but that ended up falling through, even though I had already moved the bulk of my stuff to that area. Since I had to find another place at the last minute, I ran all across the city looking at various rooms. I met some really weird people; on hindsight I probably should not have gone alone. At one place, the roommate would have been this 40-year-old guy who had a wall with photos of all the girls that ever lived with him. It's sad because he is very lonely...but also kind of creepy. He basically only rents the place to young women. 

After a week of frantic searching, I found a nice place right across the street from my old dorm. It was a bit more expensive that I would have wanted to pay, but it was clean, really nice, and had a washer and dryer in the apartment. I moved in, and literally, 4 days later I found out the place was infested with bed bugs. Not even a minor infestation--there were bed bug droppings all over the mattress, with eggs. I also found live bugs. Apparently the existing tenants had reported the problem to the landlord the day after I moved in, but didn't say anything to me until later because they didn't want me to freak out. 

Well, I did freak out. Actually, I was calm about it for the first 3-4 days after finding out, since I thought the apartment was going to get fumigated. Then, it turned out that the landlord was not going to get the place fumigated for at least another week. Then I freaked out. There were bites all over my body, and I was starting to get even worse reactions to them. They used to remain fairly small, but towards the end they would become bright red welts. I had all of my stuff in bags and was trying to sanitize it myself. Then I gave up, called a professional sanitizer to clean my stuff and put it into storage until I found another place, and left the apartment with a bag of very basic necessities (and two stuffed animals). I washed those in hot water and put them in the dryer for an hour. Luckily I had no furniture, so most of my stuff was salvageable--I ended up throwing a lot of stuff away if it was not worth the trouble of sanitizing, or if it was something difficult to sanitize. I found eggs on my diploma, so had to throw that away. Luckily, the people at Columbia were really sympathetic and mailed another one to my parents' address. 

Fortunately, I had some really kind friends who let me stay with them. Now however, I'm still looking for apartments. Since the bar exam is looming over me, I'll probably wait until later to do that. From now on though, I'm always going to (1) ask for bed bug history (apparently it's a new law in New York that every landlord has to disclose bed bug history within the past year in the entire complex) (2) inspect any furniture and (3) invest in a mattress cover. 

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Williamstown, Massachusetts



Thompson Memorial Chapel

The motel in the middle of nowhere

This weekend, I went to Williamstown for a wedding because the bride and groom met there while attending Williams College. I actually didn't do too much exploring, since I went for that express purpose, but it is a typical small, New England town. I wonder how many businesses there exist solely because of the presence of Williams College.

I made a very stupid mistake of booking a hotel that was 2 miles from the city center. In New York 2 miles is nothing, but Williamstown has no public transportation, so we had to call a cab for everything. Williamstown basically has 3 restaurants. There is a small street, Spring st., which comprises what people call "the downtown area." On that street, there is a Thai place, an Indian place, a deli, and a Vietnamese place. Sometimes I miss nature, and like the quiet peace of small places like this, but one glance at Spring st. and I knew that I would go crazy if I spent more than a month here. Sometimes I wonder if travelling has left me with location ADD--I always feel a need to explore something new, and the thought of knowing a place so well that there could never be anything new to discover makes me feel claustrophobic. Ironic that Williamstown, with its wide open spaces and fresh air would leave me feeling more trapped than New York City with its tiny, dingy apartments and crowded walkways.

The wedding of course, was beautifully done. Some drums or a rock band was playing next door, which was a bit distracting. I tried really hard not to get emotional, but when the bride's father started crying I ended up doing so too...and ruined my eye make up for the rest of the day (I had gone through the trouble of putting on fake lashes for the occasion, and they became completely unglued), but oh well. It was a Catholic ceremony, which I have never seen before. I think it would be interesting to see weddings in different countries, since I'm sure they vary a lot. In particular, the wedding food was amazing. I completely broke my attempt to be a vegetarian to eat prime rib and cheddar and apple stuffed chicken. On a side note, the gnocchi was amazing, and I normally hate gnocchi.